Blue footed Boobys and Frigates

We stopped at Isla Isabela on our north treck to Mazatlan. The "We" is Maggie and me. Maggie joined me in Puerto Vallarta and will be sailing with me for the next two months in the Sea of Cortez. Maggie is from Sydney, Australia and had sailed with me for seven months in the Caribbean Sea and somehow had found the courage to join me the second time.

Isla Isabela lured Jacques Cousteau here 30 years ago to film the rare frigate nests and a pristine underwater habitat. Today, tiny Isabela (281' volcanic peak, not a mile long) is a National Wildlife Preserve managed by the University of Guadalajara. Volunteers built an unmanned observation shelter SW of the panguero village on the S end. Grad students spend their vacations studying and protecting frigates and booby nests all over the island. The birds are not afraid of we humans and you could walk up to them but you are not allowed to disturb them and further.

Following are photos taken while on the island together with a few comments. We left the island the following day for Mazatlan and have been here since. While here we visited two Spanish Colonial towns inland. Both were having a cultural festival and were preparing for Semana Santa. Semana Santa is holy week before the celebration of Easter. We visited several museums and other sites in Durango and Zacatecas. I will highlight the visits in my next blog. As a reminder, you can double click on a photo to get an expanded view. You return to the normal size after pressing "ESC" on your computer.

This is something you DO NOT want to run into during the night.

Blue Footed Booby

Nesting Boobys

The male Boobys do a dance to attract the girls.

Right out of Star Wars.

Frigate

She is saying "Back off"

Frigates love to pick up the wind currents and soar for hours on end.

Local fishermen netting small fish for bait.

That is it for now. Stay tuned to your computer for the next installment of the "Life on Dolce Vita".

Until then be safe out there.

Still sailing

It has been more than 3 months since my last blog and there may be some of you wondering if I gave up sailing after last summer's hurricane. Vanquish those thoughts as I am still out to sea and sailing away..

I am covering old routes and have been negligent in pulling out my camera for postings on my next blog.....so the next best thing is to pull old photos that were taken when I visited these areas in the past.

I sailed to Mazatlan after life returned to normal for most people and cruisers in La Paz. That was early November. I was back together with many of my friends that I had not seen for some time. We all caught up with each others adventures since last meeting.. I flew home to California to visit and play with my Grandchildren and torment my children. Time was short so I was unable to visit some of my friends. It was especially enjoyable to spend Christmas with family which included a surprise visit from my sister who lives in Minneapolis.

I inspected the work I had asked to be done on the boat upon my return to Mazatlan and found that everything was as I had hoped except one small leak in the transmission which was easily resolved. Then I threw off the dock lines and together with my new crew, Marian, we pushed off and headed south to Puerto Vallarta and beyond. I plan on returning to Puerto Vallarta in early March to meet my next crew person, Maggie, who spent 7 months with me in the Caribbean. We are going to spend this summer sailing around the Sea of Cortez.I am currently in Barra de Navidad named such as it was discovered on Christmas day centuries before.

With that update let me now revisit some of the photos that I shared with you in earlier blogs.

First are photos from Maztlan

 Birds settling in for the evening and fighting for space to sleep.

 Another day in paradise is ending.

Christmas season and the festivities.

Fish Market

Meat market

Fruit and vegetables market

A grand church

Sculptures along the water front.

My first Christmas tree away from home.

Friends and I climbed a large hill looking down on the main harbor.

My first Mate Doug

Next are some photos taken from Tenacatida Bay.

Sailing up a small river surrounded on both sides by mangroves.

Let me finish with yet another fantastic photo of another sunset in paradise.

I promise to pullout my camera while sailing in the Sea of Cortez to share again photos and experiences during this coming summer.

Until then be safe out there.

Dennis on sailing vessel Dolce Vita.

HURRICANE ODILE - 9/14/2014

One too many adventures.

All of my past blogs that I have posted have contained text and photos of happy times on Dolce Vita as I have sailed the seven seas. I am very sad to report that this posting of commentary and photos is very sad.

At approximately 9:00 pm on September 14, 2014 a category 3 hurricane, the strongest to ever hit La Paz, Mexico, arrived where I am currently located. Winds greater than 135 MPH were reported in the harbor. I will attempt to take you through the sequence of events that transpired before, during and following the hurricane.

Hurricanes on this side of the Pacific Ocean form up in southern Mexico near the Guatemala border. Most follow a path the takes them northwest away from the Mexican coast. Starting in September, hurricanes begin to take a different path that brings them much closer to the Baja California coastline.There have only been 10 named hurricanes that have hit the Baja peninsula. All but one, hurricane John, has been a category 1. Now comes Odile.

We cruisers started watching Odile form up in the south. Its' path was projected to be southwest of Cabo. A near miss. Hurricanes can and do change course from projected paths and as such they need to be carefully watched. Odile is one such hurricane.

I dove on my boat to clean the barnacles off of the bottom and the propellor. The boat would not be able to propel itself under power if the growth is too much around the prop. I encouraged a friend anchored near me to do the same since he had not cleaned the bottom in 3 months. He kept putting it off so I cleaned it for him. The growth was so much that he would have not been able to move his boat and would have been at the mercy of the current and wind. He and his wife are on a very tight budget and didn't have enough money to pay for the marina fees if we had to move so I agreed to lend him the needed money so he would not been left behind at anchor. I would not have been able to live with myself if we were in a protected marina and he or his boat were lost.

On late Saturday evening it became apparent that Odile was changing direction. I helped to move a boat to a safer anchorage the first thing on Sunday morning and began to make preparations to move to a safe marina. I also told my friend to do the same and follow me. A third boat, also friends, decided to follow our example.

We safely arrived at the marina and immediately started to bring out all of the lines we had to secure our boats to our slips. Now we wait.There was little or no rain ahead of Odile and the winds were light. At around 9:00 pm the winds started to pick up. I had went to bed early so I could get some sleep fully expecting to be up most of the evening and the next day until the worst had passed.You are probably asking yourself at this point, "Did he stay on his boat?" Yes I did. I have caught more hell from family and friends that I have had to swear never to do that again.

I went off of the boat several times to move my fenders and check the lines as well checking other boats. I was careful to always hang onto something so as not to be blown over into the water.

It is now 5:00 am. The eye is now passing and when doing so, the winds become very calm. You probably have heard the words, The eye before the storm. The second half of the storm can, and often is much stronger. The direction of the winds changes 180 degrees. All hell breaks loose again and we all hang on and hope for the best. By 3:00 pm the winds settle down. We all breeze easy again. All of us were outside of our boats assessing any damage to our or others boats. The marina is well protected and other than minor damage to the docks there was little damage to the boats around us.

We next called cruisers on the radio to see how others had survived and we were told it was a total disaster for many boat. Later we were told of the boats that sank. Three people on two of those boats were later found to be missing. I knew all three of these people well and had spent many times together sharing stories about our lives sailing.

The body of a German man named Gunther was found on his boat. It was later found that he had died of a fatal heart attack. The other couple were Paul and Samone. Their bodies were found in the mangroves.

Now recovery begins. Many of us helped to pull boats off of the beach that still can still. Items are being taken off of other boats that can not be saved by the owner with help from other cruisers. I assisted others in pulling four boats off of the beach with many more boats waiting.

Here is the list of all of the boats that were beached, damaged or sunk.

• Star Duster - aground
• Rock Bottom - aground with water intrusion
• Beyond - aground
• Maia - aground
• Om - aground
• Callisto II - aground
• Island Seeker - aground
• Steel Breeze - aground
• Ocean Light - aground and awash
• Last Hurrah - aground and awash
• Dolphin - aground
• Dorikam (Honolulu, HI) on the rocks and piled up with Aspara
• Aspara - on the rocks and piled up with Dorikam 
• Tabasco II - sunk (Paul and Samone's boat)
• Timberlake - aground
• Luci - aground
• Oceanis ARC - aground
• Damiana - aground
• Satori - aground
• Satin - aground
• Pampered Lady - aground
• Princess - sunk (Gunther's boat)
• Cementress - aground
• Andariego - sunk/aground/awash

"In addition to the vessels named above, four vessels that were initially aground have been successfully refloated and are doing fine.

I could go on with other stories of people's escape from near death and the many stories of how our cruising community has all held together to help each other in need. This is an example for everyone to follow to help ourselves and others when disaster strikes our lives and lives of others.

Here now are a few photos of the affected boats.

Paul and Samone's boat.

FInally let me leave with these final words. My sister sent me this which was read at our father's memorial. For those of us who have lost friends, may this bring us peace.

I'm Free

Don't grieve for me for now I'm free

I'm following the path God laid for me.

I took his hand when I heard him call,

I turned my back and left it all.

I could not stay another day

to laugh, to love, to work or play.

Tasks undone must stay that way.

I found that peace at close of day.

If my parting has left a void,

then fill it with remembered joy.

A friendship shared, a laugh, a kiss,

ah yes, these things I too will miss.

Be not burdened with times of sorrow,

I wish you the sunshine of tomorrow.

My life's been full, I've savored much,

good, friends, good times, a loved one's touch.
Perhaps my time seemed all too brief,
don't lengthen it now with undue grief.
Lift up your hearts and share with me,
God wanted me now; He set me free.

 With heartfelt sympathy to you and others in the cruising community there and to the families.  Wishing you all God's Blessings.

Life in better times. They swam past my boat while at anchor. Mom, Dad and the little baby out for a swim.

I am alive in La Paz, Mexico

I am stuck in La Paz, Mexico but having fun none the less. Hurricane season again which means tucking into somewhere until end of October when the season ends.

I arrived here from Mazatlan around this past March. After a few weeks here any after returning from Europe, I sailed north up into the Sea of Cortez reaching Santa Rosalita in two weeks while enjoying the many islands along the way. My intentions were to continue north to the Bay of Los Angeles but the boat had different plans. At least 3 problems surfaced with the boat and I thought best to return to La Paz where I could find the services and parts that were needed. Here I remain while enjoying the companionship of many other cruisers, some of which I have met along the way before arriving here.

It has been too long since my last blog and photos that I took going north are much the same as I had taken back in 2009 when last visiting the Sea....... so I am going to paste and older blog that I posted back in 2009. Some of you may not have seen this before so it is as if it were new. The others of you that are near my age have forgotten that you had viewed this before so this is as if it was also new for you.

So enjoy the brief blog and relax knowing that I am still alive and well.

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I stayed around Isla San Jose for awhile having made myself lunch, waiting for the tides to come in but it looked like they were going to remain low until late afternoon. There are these little bad ass bugs called no-see-ums that are smaller than the head of a needle and there is no way to prevent them from entering the boat and having there way with you. They leave behind a small itchy welt that drives otherwise normal people to jump off of a cliff. So I pulled anchor after not wishing to jump off bridges by remaining there through the evening when they come out of their holes.

Next anchorage was San Evaristo. This is a bay on the Baja peninsula.

Here, as in many locations along the way, is a small fishing village. There is a small store to pick up some supplies that you may need and a home that sells beer if you have run out. It remains open as long as there is something on the shelf and closes so they can drive to La Paz to buy food stuff to again sell to the locals and boaters.

This is the vulture I wrote about in one of my emails. Take a close look. Do you agree that he has a hungry look as he see me pass below him?


For those that have not driven in Mexico, this is a Mexican road sign.


Here she sits. A little closer view of Dolce Vita at anchor in San Evaristo.

Next stop is Nopolo. This location is also on the Baja peninsula. There was not much here to explore ashore but is was quiet and a great place to sit back and chill.


Another great sunset to enjoy while sitting in the cockpit with a drink and a good book.

OK! It is time to pull anchor again. Next stop is Bahia San Carlos.


I don't think I have mentioned how clear the water is. The dark spots in the photos are small rocks. The depth of the water here is 20 feet. Watch and you see several fish swimming by but none large enough for dinner.


Remember Manuel? He is the hombre that caught be lobster for dinner one evening. This is his garage where he keeps his truck. Notice the large bones he has his hands on. Whale bones.


Most of he homes in Mexico are small and usually are very simple in design. Much like a block house. This gentleman had some creative juices when he built this home. This is Manuel's neighbor.


Remember the house that was built after selling a blue 5 carat pearl that a fisherman found. This was built back in the early 1900's. Local history does not say how long someone lived here but it now stands as an empty hulk. No one has enough money to buy it and restore the roof and the interior.

Next stop is Bahia San Marte. Did some more snorkeling and hiking here around the ridge of the bay. It is always rewarding when you can hike to the top of some hill near the anchorage so you can get a good perspective of what the area offers in a way of views.

Here are some photos that I took while on the hike. I went snorkeling after getting back to the boat so I could cool off. One of the other snorkelers mentioned that I must be a strong man. Asking why they thought such nonsense they said I had only a pair of swimming trunks on. They all had full wet suits. The water temperature was 83 degrees. You tell me if you would need a wet suit.





Well that is all for the second installment of the blog. I am going into Loreto tomorrow to see the town and take some photos.